Ever thought about taking a Belgian city break somewhere off the beaten path, away from the throngs of tourists swarming Bruges or Ghent? Let me paint a picture of a place where history and modernity coalesce in harmonious elegance, and where solitude and serenity are yours for the taking: welcome to Mechelen.
Discovering Mechelen: Belgium’s Hidden Gem
Located conveniently on the train line between Belgium’s charming capital, Brussels, and the bustling city of Antwerp, Mechelen sits quaintly in its opulent glory. This city, which once served as the capital of most of the Low Countries in the 16th century, is grand in history yet charmingly compact for modern visitors. Despite its grandeur, Mechelen remains delightfully unblemished by the crowded tourist trails, offering an authentic Belgian experience full of intricate architecture and rich cultural nooks.
A Historical Station and a Journey Through Time
If you’re a fan of history, or perhaps a railway enthusiast, you’ll appreciate that Mechelen was once home to continental Europe’s first railway terminus back in 1835. Although the original station is undergoing a futuristic facelift, you’ll find the 15-minute walk into the town’s historic center a joyous backward glance in time. As you wander down cobbled streets, the elegant silhouette of Saint Rumbold’s Cathedral guides your steps, standing as a testament to Mechelen’s unheralded grandeur.
Climbs and Views: Saint Rumbold’s Cathedral
Inside the towering edifice of Saint Rumbold’s Cathedral, artistic treasures await. Here, masterpieces by artists like Anthony van Dyck, whose painting of Christ on the cross adorns the baroque high altar, and choir works by Lucas Faydherbe create an ambience of gentle reverence. For the ambitious traveler, a climb of 538 steps leads to an open-air walkway boasting unparalleled views of the Flemish skyline. It’s a journey you won’t forget, not just for the views, but for the sense of accomplishment you’ll carry with each step.
Walking Through Mechelen’s Golden Age
The Hof van Busleyden museum captures the essence of Mechelen’s golden age. This ornate redbrick palace, bordered by Renaissance gardens, draws you into a narrative of opulence and intrigue that once hosted princes, emperors, and luminaries such as Erasmus and Sir Thomas More. Exhibiting priceless tapestries, baroque sculptures, and Flemish masterpieces by Peter Paul Rubens and David Vinckboons, the museum is a window into the lavish life of Mechelen’s past.
Modern Meets Historical: Het Predikheren
Embodying the perfect blend of historic and contemporary, the transformation of the 17th-century Het Predikheren monastery into a bustling cultural hub and public library is a must-see. Here, art exhibitions and musical events paint a lively picture against a backdrop of historical architecture. Whether you choose to sip craft beers on the terrace or indulge in the culinary delights of the Michelin-starred Tinèlle restaurant, the lively atmosphere offers something for everyone.
Experiencing the Grand Béguinage
No visit to Mechelen is complete without a stroll through the Grand Béguinage. This UNESCO world heritage site, with its quaint alleyways and timeless cottages, was initially a sanctuary for the Béguines, lay religious women. Today, it houses Het Anker, a family-run brewery dating back to 1471. A tour of this venerable institution, complete with beer and whisky tastings, ensures you experience the full flavor of Mechelen’s brewing heritage.
Sampling Mechelen’s Culinary Marvels
Speaking of flavors, the local cuisine is sure to whet your appetite. Amid the cozy brasserie of Het Anker, enjoy beef carbonnade, a comforting stew marinated in their signature Gouden Carolus beer. Alternatively, the koekouek, or cuckoo chicken, garnished with fresh, local asparagus, provides a taste of tradition with every bite.
Staying in Style: Martin’s Patershof
After a day of exploring, rest and recuperation await at Martin’s Patershof. This fascinating hotel resides in an old neo-Gothic church, adding an ethereal essence to your stay. Rooms boast original stained-glass windows and vaulted ceilings, turning each night into a charmingly artistic retreat. Here, dining under the watchful eyes of religious paintings, breakfast becomes a spiritual experience.
Saturdays at the Market: A Feast for the Senses
As the weekend rolls in, Grote Markt, the heart of Mechelen, bursts into life. On Saturdays, this square becomes the stage for a vibrant market where local delicacies such as cheeses, smoked sausages, and freshly caught oysters vie for your attention. A leisurely morning here allows you to savor the rich flavors of Belgian bubbly while mingling with locals, enjoying the authentic hospitality that Mechelen has to offer.
The Cosmopolitan Vleeshalle
For a taste of culinary diversity, meander over to the Vleeshalle. Once a 19th-century butcher’s market, it now serves as an emporium of cosmopolitan food stalls. It’s here local favorites merge with international flavors, offering a tasty, reasonably priced lunch in an ambiance brimming with local warmth.
Reflective Walks: The Kazerne Dossin Memorial
An afternoon at Kazerne Dossin provides a poignant shift in tone, focusing on the sobering history of Mechelen’s role during World War II. Once a transit camp for the deportation of Jews, Gypsies, and homosexuals, the concrete structure now memorializes these victims. Through its austere façade, the museum delivers a powerful narrative on the past’s scars, invoking reflections upon contemporary human rights issues.
A Stroll by the Dyle River
Perhaps, after the emotional gravity of Kazerne Dossin, you might find peace along the futuristic towpath of the Dyle River. This raised ramp seems to float above the water, guiding you under ancient bridges and past historic sites. Finally, it meanders toward Kruidtuin, what was once botanical gardens, now a lush public park. Here, against the backdrop of streams and lakes, spring announces its arrival with vibrant blossoms, offering both solace and beauty.
Music and Community: Parkpop Concerts
Finally, end your visit to Mechelen on a melodic note with the Parkpop series. Held during the summer, these outdoor concerts fill the air with music. True to Mechelen’s character, the crowds remain manageable, ensuring you enjoy the rhythmic beats in peace. As the melodies linger in the air, they serve as a gentle reminder of the city’s subtle charm and the timeless allure that makes a quiet getaway here so compelling.
In Mechelen, you find a treasure trove of history, culture, and culinary delight. Whether you’re sipping from a Gouden Carolus beer or climbing the steps of Saint Rumbold’s Cathedral, the city invites you to savor each moment, offering a serene contrast to its bustling Belgian counterparts. Let Mechelen’s inviting aura captivate you; here, every cobblestone and stained-glass window holds a story waiting for you to uncover.
